Lhakpa Ri Expedition
Mount Lhakpa Ri is the newly becoming
famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers
have been attracted these days to this mountain
climbing through Tibet side. It divides the
upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is
very close to Mount Everest and one feels as
equal to be climbed Mount Everest the moment,
he reaches on the top of this mountain.
It was first climb by George Mallory
who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance
in 1921; and he had seen its North Col.
Bill Tilman made the second ascent
during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The
Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers
Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth ascent by
Ken Mc Connell in 1991 the present expedition
teams are also using these same routes as the
previous four expedition teams had used in the
past.
The Expedition starts from Kathmandu-
Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp
(Lhakpa Ri Base camp) 5200m. After that you
have to spend a few days for acclimatization.
After this base camp, you should start your
expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m,
with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition
crews. Then you have to take a night's rest
in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this
track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which
is situated at the height of 6400m.
After this at this, point you may feel some
altitude sickness; and in case of this you should
take a couple of day's rest there. After that
climbing up ahead you reach almost at the level
of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from
where fantastic view of Makalu & Kanchnjunga
are seen. Then you get a good look of your route
up to the Lhakpa Ri.
From ABC, start early in the morning;
and you should go crossing the Rongbuk glacier.
There are few crevasses and slopes from the
Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively
low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass
6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa
Ri until you reach at the very foot of the slope,
leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit.
The routes are 20 -30 degrees vertical elevations.
This route to climb is not so hard but the vertical
way is very long. You have use main rope with
the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here.
Following the way of the North ridge on the
other side you see Kharta glacier and the views
of North Col of Everest. The same way of the
ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From
the Lhakpa Ri, a very beautiful views of above
the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and
also the good panoramic views of small mountains
down below there can be seen.
After reaching the summits, on
your way back you can choose the different route
to get down via Lhasa the capital of old city
of Tibet. And this new route may give you another
enthusiastic and charming feeing inside you.
Climbing Sherpa guide:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained
and qualified climbing Sherpas for your expeditions.
If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition,
they are very useful in your each and every
step of support, which makes your climbing easier
to restore your strained energy; and it gives
you vigorous strength for your next day's climbing.
Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa
guides on the expedition, are found to be succeeded
as per our past experiences. So we suggest you
to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa
guides.
Outline Itinerary:
Day 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu - Transfer to
Hotel.
Day 02 : Kathmandu (Prepare Expedition)
Day 03 : Kathmandu
Day 04 : Drive to Kodari - Cross border &
Zhangmu
Day 05 : Zhangmu - Nyalam
Day 06 : Nyalam - Tingri
Day 07 : Tingri Acclimatized
Day 08 : Tingri - Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
Day 09 : Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
Day 10 : Lhakpa Ri Base Camp - Middle Camp
Day 11 : Middle Camp - Advance base camp
Day: 12-26 : Climbing period of Lhakpa Ri
Day 27 : Base camp - Shigatse
Day 28 : Shigatse - Gyantse
Day 29 : Gyantse - Lhasa
Day 30 : Lhasa
Day 31 : Lhasa
Day 32 : Lhasa to Kathmandu flight & transfer
to Hotel.
Day 33 : Kathmandu
Day 34 : Kathmandu
Day 35 : Final departure
Our services include:
-
5 nights
accommodation in Kathmandu with bed &
breakfast in three star hotel
-
Expert
professional Nepalese expedition crews like
Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide
-
Mountaineering
gears till to the base camp are provided;
-
Full
equipped crews
-
Tibet
visa & Travel Permit for the expedition
crew
-
Full
board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu,
Nyalam & Tingri (bed & breakfast,
Lunch, dinner) as well as Shigatse, Ghyntse,
Lhasa after expedition
-
Base
Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person
(North Face brand)
-
Dining
tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent
& Kitchen tent
-
Per
person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak
till to the from BC to ABC
-
Per
person's (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak
on the way back to the ABC to the Base camp
-
Kathmandu
- Zhangmu - Base Camp transport provided the
Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck
for the equipment and after expedition drive
to Lhasa
-
Flight
back to Kathmandu for members only
-
Lhakpa
Ri Peak permit
-
Tibet
Visa & Travel permit
-
Liaison
officer & Interpreter
-
Nepalese
crew' insurance
-
Base
camp Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator,
medical propose only
-
Satellite
phone (Pay call).
-
Farewell
dinner
