A Buddhist Heritage (09 nights/10
days)
Itinerary
Day 01 : Arriving
in Lhasa you will be met and driven to Tsetang
at the head of the Yarlung and Tsangpo rivers.
Dominating the valleys, Tsetang was founded
in 1351 by Jangchub Gyaltsen, an abbot of the
Phagmo Drupa sect. In Tibetan mythology, human
beings were descended from the union of a demoness
and Avalokitesvara, the God of Compassion in
the form of a monkey. Legend has it that the
divine pair came down to earth to play at Tsetang,
and the name literally means "playground."
The monasteries were badly damaged during the
Cultural Revolution. Perhaps the best-preserved
temple is the Sang-ngag Zimche Nunnery, housing
an old statue of Tibet's first Buddhist king,
Songtsen Gampo. You will stay at the simple
but clean Tsetang Hotel during your stay in
the Yarlung Valley.
Day 02 : You
will spend the next day exploring the beautiful
Yarlung Tsangpo Valley, the cradle of Tibetan
civilization. When you are ready in the morning,
you will drive to the river and take a ferry
with all of the local people across the river
to Samye. Because of the sandbars, the boat
cannot just go straight and has to weave all
around the water and shoreline. Samye is Tibet's
first monastery, built over 1200 years ago by
Trisong Detsen under the auspices of the two
Indian teachers, Padmasambhava and Shantarashita.
Here, Buddhism was formally inaugurated as the
state religion and Tibet's first monks were
trained and ordained by the Abbot Shantarashita.
The design of the monastery, like most monasteries
and temples, is symbolic. Samye is a mirror
of the Buddhist universe, with the main temple
as Mount Sumeru, the mythical monument at the
center of the cosmos. Side chapels represent
the four continents and subcontinents. Samye
has been damaged over time by fires and the
Cultural Revolution. Nevertheless, it was not
totally destroyed and one can sense its long
history and appreciate the paintings and statues.
From Samye, you will recross the river and travel
to Yongbulakang, the oldest known dwelling in
Tibet. Its history goes back to the semi-mythical
king Nyatri Tsenpo, who was said to have descended
from heaven on a rainbow. Yombulakang, like
many of the monasteries, was totally destroyed
during the cultural revolution, and the present
replica was rebuilt in 1982. You will have to
walk very slowly for about 45 minutes (not easy
at this altitude) up to the building. The ground
floor shrine honors the ancient kings of Tibet
and the upper story houses a beautiful chapel.
Perhaps the highpoint of the visit will be the
late afternoon views and the shades of colors
stretching for miles across the barren Tibetan
plateau as the sun is going down.
Day 03 : Leaving
Tsetang, you will head west along the Tsangpo
River. Your drive is quite spectacular. Your
first stop will be Mindroling Monastery, founded
by Terdak Lingba in 1676. Despite the relative
"newness" of this monastery, it is
the first of the Nyingmapa monasteries in Tibet
and was rebuilt several times. The Nyingmapas
are the oldest Buddhist sect in Tibet founded
in the eighth century by Padmasambhava.
Your destination after Mindroling
is Gyantse, and on the way, you will cross the
15,742 foot Kamba La Pass with its spectacular
views of Yandruk Tso. Yandruk Tso is one of
the holiest Lakes to inhabitants of the Lhasa
area. The Chinese are building a power plant
here, and locals are afraid their lake will
be desecrated and dry up. Your road will also
take you along a river that not too long ago
was the site of the old road. Be sure to ask,
as you drive, to see the castle where the British
captain, Young husband, stayed. Once on land,
the area is now surrounded by water. In 1904,
Young husband, leader of the British expedition
to Lhasa, waged a major battle, killing several
hundred Tibetans. He stayed on for a month in
the castle, before proceeding to Lhasa. Late
in the afternoon, you will arrive in Gyantse
and head to your hotel. For what it is worth,
you can actually get a good massage from the
girls in the hotel, if you dare!
Day 05 : Gyantse,
once Tibet's third most important city, lies
at the head of the Nyangchu Valley astride the
main trade routes from India, Bhutan, and Nepal
to Lhasa. Made wealthy by selling sheep and
yak wool, the rich lords of the city pooled
their resources in the early 1400's to build
the Kumbum, a Nepalese-style stupa containing
some of the best preserved and most unique art
in Tibet, and Peljor Chode, the spectacular
assembly hall. In the 15th century, there were
actually nine major monasteries near or in the
town. The Kumbum is truly the synthesis of Nepali
(Newari)/Tibetan art and architecture. The building
itself contains 112 chapels each with spectacular
statues and paintings in remarkably good repair.
As one moves from the lower to the higher stories,
the wall paintings themselves represent higher
and higher Buddhist practices. If you have the
energy, it is well worthwhile to climb to the
top and survey the area. Next to the Kumbum
is a monastery that is a joy for those who enjoy
Tibetan art. The paintings on the wall, very
different in style from those in the Kumbum,
are extraordinary. Additionally, since most
tourists only stop to look at the Kumbum, the
monks are thrilled to see visitors and love
to show them around. In the afternoon, you will
visit the Peljor Chode Monastery at the other
end of town. The monastery was built in 1418
by Rabten Kunzang. Excellently preserved, the
monastery contains many statues and paintings
that date back to its founding. Without doubt,
the statues, paintings and thankas of Gyantse
are among some of the most spectacular art of
the trip. Once again, you will sleep in Gyantse.
Day 06 : Rising
early you will continue driving west to Shigatse.
In the early days of Communism, some of the
monks of Shigatse were in collusion with the
security bureau and reported anyone accepting
or distributing pictures of the Dalai Lama.
They hoped that by cooperating with the Communists,
they could save their temple from destruction.
Sadly, it did not work completely. Nevertheless,
Tashilumpo monastery, the oldest and largest
Gelugpa Monastery in Tsang province and home
to the Panchen Lama, is magnificent. Be sure,
when you are there, to do the kora or pilgrim
circuit. As you walk, the path will take you
past holes for dogs, thought of as "fallen
monks," as well as places to earn merit
by rubbing your body against holy rocks. You
will find yourself sitting down and chatting
with the local pilgrims, monks and nuns, and
the walk will turn into a real happening.
Day 07 : This
morning, before you leave, you can take a few
minutes and explore the small Tibetan bazaar.
When you are ready, you can complete your circle
and drive back to Lhasa. When you arrive, you
will be taken to the Lhasa Hotel - an excellent
5-star hotel with some excellent restaurants.
Here, you can wash and unpack. When you are
ready, you can take a walk in the Barkhor, the
shopping area surrounding the Jokhang.
Day 08 : Rising
early you will grab a quick breakfast. Around
7:30am you head back to the Barkhor and the
Jokhang, spiritual center of Tibet and destination
of millions of Tibetan Pilgrims. The Jokhang,
built in 767AD by Tibet's first Buddhist King,
Songtsen Gampo, is the heart of this Buddhist
world. You can walk the kora or pilgrim route,
around the Barkhor with the early morning pilgrims.
After the outside kora you enter the temple
and walk the nangkhor, or inside of the temple.
On the roof of the Jokhang, you can take beautiful
pictures of the market and pilgrims below, and
the Potala on the hill across the square. From
the Jokhang, you will head to the Potala, the
the former winter palace of the Dalai Lama,
built on the escarpments of Red Hill and rising
more than 1000' above the valley floor. If you
can, enter through the pilgrim entrance, up
the long path, rather than through the tourist
entrance. Your visit to the Potala, complete,
you will have lunch at one of the local restaurants.
After lunch, you can visit the amusement park
and one of Lhasa's gems - the Lhukang, set in
the middle of a lake. At one time, one would
take a boat across the lake. Now the area is
a Chinese theme park, and it is fun to see how
the people use the area. The temple is one of
the gems of Lhasa, and contains artwork related
to Tibetan medical practices.
Day 09 : This
morning, for your last full day in Tibet, you
will begin with a visit to the Norbulinka, once
named Jewel Park and now People's Park. The
Norbulinka was the former summer palace of successive
Dalai Lamas from 1755, and suffered extensive
damage during the Cultural Revolution. Much
has been rebuilt, and it is fascinating to see
how the Dalai Lama actually lived. Painted on
one of the walls is a picture of the 14th Dalai
Lama and his family - the only picture of His
Holiness still prominent in Tibet. Near the
Norbulinkha is a new Museum of Tibetan Culture,
built by the Chinese and just opened last year.
It is well worth a stop both to see the exhibits
and to read the Chinese version of Tibetan history.
After visiting the museum, you can have lunch
and then head over to Sera, in time for the
3pm debates. Sera, is a 15th century Gelugpa
monastery, founded by one of Tsong Khapa's disciples,
and is famous for its Tantric teachings. The
name Sera means "Merciful Hail." Years
ago, a rivalry existed between Sera and Drepung
(means "Rice Heap"). The monks from
Sera thought their hail would destroy Drepung's
rice, while Sera boasted the "dob-dobs,"
an elite corps of warrior monks, much feared
by other Buddhist leaders.
Day 10 :
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Note
: Designed itinerary is a sample itinerary
intended to give you a general idea of the likely
trip schedule. We can further customize the
itinerary to suit as your needs and interest.